Warning: drunk characters ahead.
We passed a group of guys at the top of the harbor. They were drinking beer and sitting on the bench in front of the Wet Goods. Co-workers, but not ones I talked to very much. It wouldn’t matter, though, because since I’d moved out of the bunkhouse, I’d felt sort of a disconnect from the rest of my co-workers, a sense of no longer belonging. A large percentage of the guys only hung out with each other and wouldn’t dream of socializing with anyone local or even anyone who wasn’t a slimer. After spending twelve hours standing across from someone, cleaning fish and making small talk, whether easy or labored, I was ready for new faces. Of course, being a woman in Alaska made socializing much easier.
Sam and Joy walked with their arms around each other’s waists. I followed behind with my water jug and the essential toilet paper.
“What are you doing back there? Get up here!” Sam hollered back at me. Joy waved me forward with her free arm. I started to slide in next to Joy, but Sam grabbed me and whipped me around to his other side, arm glued around my waist. Three dorks.
“That’s better,” Sam said, “don’t be anti-social.”
“I wasn’t being anti-social,” I protested, “I was being considerate and giving you some space.”
“We’re not in bed,” Joy said, “we don’t need space. Don’t be such a dork.”
“Ok,” I said as we awkwardly struggled down the ramp, still three abreast, “but I think it’s too late for any of us to worry about dorkdom.”
Finally, at the bottom of the ramp, I let myself be pulled along.
“Where’s the wine and beer?” I asked, since Sam seemed to have no free arms.
“Hey, babe,” he said, “already thought about it, already loaded it. Everything is under control.”
I rolled my eyes and shook my head wordlessly. Joy giggled.
It was a beautiful day for Pelican. This isn’t to be confused with a beautiful day anywhere else. Those postcards of Alaska that show blue sky and the sun? Rare, very rare. Yes, they do happen, but so seldom that if you waited for one of those days to say it was a beautiful day, you’d only be saying that a couple times a year.
No, it was beautiful, but in a much more subtle and mystical way. It was high overcast, no wind at all, and a little mist was settling down slowly onto the water. Ravens and seagulls watched us from the tops of the power lines, from the wheel house roofs, and some just stood on the dock.
The skiff looked average-small to me, but what do I know? I grew up in Montana. Sam helped me in first (does everyone assume that I’m a klutz as well as a dork?), and then he and Joy proceeded to step on me since he wanted me in the bow, Joy in the middle, while he drove from the back.
“Stern,” Sam told me sternly, “Not the back, the stern.”
“It’s called the stern, even in a little piece of crap boat like this?” I asked.
“Yes.”
Joy and I smiled at each other knowingly and then we putted out of the harbor and Sam opened her up and we were off.
Oh, so cold. I huddled inside my coat, pulled a cool knit hat out of my pocket and pulled it over my ears. I made myself into a tiny ball and tried to enjoy my surroundings as the wind made tears leak from my eyes.
“Cold?” Sam shouted.
“Yes!” Joy and I screamed back in unison.
“Too bad. You gotta wait.”
It was fascinating to see Pelican from this vantage point. I realized that normally being in Pelican is like being stuck inside one of those snow globes. You’re always in it. Anywhere else you can get in your car and drive away or walk away. Go far enough and you hit another town. But not in Pelican. The whole boardwalk is a half mile. And then at each end, wilderness, mountains, water, but no roads, no connecting towns. Isolation. Suffocation. God it felt good to be in that skiff and see Pelican getting smaller and smaller.
Soon we couldn’t see it, but as we passed the small islands—three of them, First Island, Ing-land (named for the guy that lives on it) and Third Island—how original, I was surprised to see more houses.
“What’s all this?” I asked, pointing.
“Phonograph,” Sam replied, “Well, not really. Not yet, but coming up is Phonograph. People are just starting to call everything this direction Phonograph, though.”
I decided against asking for an explanation. Some of the houses were pretty nice, though. I could maybe handle something like this. It wouldn’t be as suffocating as being stuck in Pelican all the time.
Then we were past all the houses and we kept on going. A few minutes later, Sam cut the engine and then everything was still.
“Babe. Beer.”
Joy and I both reached for the beer and I sheepishly subsided. She grinned at me and shook her head in mock disappointment.
“Hey, you two got to drink that wine, you know.”
“Glasses?” Joy asked.
I was shaking my head in refusal.
“Paper cups, babe. No glasses here.”
“You know what I mean.”
“Yeah, I do.” More lovey-dovey smiles. Was I still hung-over or were they causing my nausea?
“Petra, you, too.” Sam insisted.
“Do you guys want to see me puke or something.”
Sam shrugged. “Whatever. Won’t bother me.”
“Not the point, Sam. Would bother me. I hate to puke.”
“I just mean that it wouldn’t hurt anything with all this water out here.”
I shook my head again. Joy tried to hand me a very large paper cup of white wine. I shook my head again. Joy looked disgusted at me.
Then she leaned over and obviously and slowly French-kissed Sam.
“Hand me that damn glass if you two are going to be doing that.”
I took a deep breath, started sipping and looked away from the two of them. Definitely the third wheel, but I didn’t want to be included.
It was so beautiful and mysterious looking. Dead calm. Still. The water had a green cast to it. Occasionally a fish would flip itself out of the water. I watched eagles circling overhead, perusing the depths before launching themselves down at the water and snagging a fish. I watched the tree tops and saw even more eagles. I counted…twenty…thirty…something like that.
I finished my paper cup of wine—thankfully, my two buddies had remembered ice—and I looked back at them to see if it was safe to get another. They appeared to have paused in their groping to admire the scenery, too.
Refilled, we just drifted, talking lazily about this and that, and watching the wild life.
Second cup of wine gone, I handed it over for a refill and Sam obliged.
“You two are dangerous,” I mentioned in passing. “All my good intentions for naught.”
“I can’t believe those guys want to sleep with you seeing how you talk,” Joy said.
“You don’t see how a person talks,” I corrected.
“Aa, they’d just plug their ears,” was Sam’s contribution. “They don’t care about her vocabulary.”
“And that’s why I won’t sleep with any of them,” I said mischievously. “They must care about my vocabulary if they want to get anywhere with me.”
“I’ll be sure to tell them that,” Sam threatened.
“Don’t you dare or I won’t babysit you.”
“Oh, yes you will,” Joy threatened me.
I smiled at them both and realized that once again I was feeling pretty drunk. Safe, though, but drunk.
“Crap. I didn’t want to drink today.”
“Boo hoo, “said one or the other.
I shared a finger and spared them my vocabulary.
At that moment I heard a strange noise and propped myself back up, looking around. Then I heard it again. It was kind of like a woof, but not a dog woof.
“What?” I asked softly.
“Cool,” Sam said and pointed. “Look.”
Something grey and shiny was on the top of the water. And then it wasn’t. A moment later, a spout of water blew, then another, and another, and then three grey slabs of something were on the water and moving toward and alongside us.
“Is that?” I started to ask.
“Uh-huh.” Sam replied.
We waited and just watched as three humpback whales traveled alongside us. They were right at the surface of the water, instead of diving deep.
“They must be done feeding,” Sam said softly, “there’s been herring up here for a few days. They must have followed the feed in.”
They came almost within touching distance. I made eye-contact with one of them. It wasn’t scary, but it was awe-inspiring. That intelligent eye looked back at me and I wondered what it saw, how it perceived us. So beautiful.
Then they passed us. I sighed, deeply moved by the encounter.
“Wow! Let’s go!” Sam started the engine and the next thing I knew, we were flying along on the water and moving alongside our humpback friends again. They tolerated us for several exhilarating minutes, and then they let us know that we were in their element. They just disappeared, leaving us in their metaphorical dust.
Sam cut the engine again. “That was SO cool!” And we all had a refill. And then another. We talked in circles over and over about the encounter. It was its own kind of high. I realized that we all three were pretty drunk.
“I got to pee,” Joy announced.
“So go, babe,” Sam said.
“Here. Just go in the bottom of the skiff.”
“Don’t you even think of it,” I warned her.
“But I really got to go,” Joy whined.
“Hold it,” I threatened.
“Petra,” Sam tried to reason with me, “as soon as I start the skiff up again, it’s all going to get sucked out the back.”
“I’ve got to pee, too,” I said.
“So pee!” Sam sounded exasperated.
“I can’t pee in this boat.”
“Why not?”
“I can’t pee in front of anyone.”
Joy, for reasons known only to herself, thought this was hysterically funny and laughed until she nearly peed her pants.
Gasping, she demanded, “Take us somewhere so Petra can pee.”
“You two are stupid.”
We giggled.
Sam looked disgusted. “Fine, but I have to pee now, so just wait.”
And with that he turned his back to us and peed off the side of the skiff, both of us watching.
“Yeah,” I said, “easy for him to be disgusted. He doesn’t have to bare his butt and squat. Peeing outside is so undignified for a woman, you know.”
“Yeah,” Joy backed me up. Sam just shook his head in disgust and started the engine.
“We’re almost back to town,” he announced. “Can you wait that long?”
“No,” we said in unison.
Again, he shook his head in disgust and beached the skiff on the Flats.
“Have at it,” he said.
“Where?” we asked, bewildered and a little outraged that he took us to such an open spot.
“There!” he pointed. “Go behind that big drift wood snag.”
Joy and I stumbled out of the skiff. Our feet got wet. We laughed. We held each other up. We got our bearings and started to stumble toward the snag while holding each other and giggling helplessly.
“Wait!” Joy shouted. “I forgot the toilet paper. Bring me the toilet paper, sweetheart!”
“Are you going to poop?”
“For God’s sake, don’t shout ‘poop’. No we’re not going to poop!” I shouted. I turned to Joy and said, “hey, you’re not going to poop, are you?”
She continued to laugh and managed to gasp, “No, but I think I’m going to pee my pants.”
I started laughing harder, putting myself in similar danger. We stumbled over to the snag, dropped our pants, hoped no one happened to be watching from a window with binoculars. We accomplished our mission. Amazing.
“Hey!” Sam yelled, “I’m going to the harbor and tying up the skiff. Meet you at home.”
“Sure, babe,” Joy shouted.
“Sure, babe,” I echoed.
Joy and I staggered arm and arm across the Flats and to the bridge. “Hey,” Joy said, “let’s stop at the bar.”
“Great idea, “ I agreed and we were on our way.
Recent Comments